This Once Was

June 2019 - March 2022 

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As a seamstress working in bespoke womenswear I was surrounded by the illusion of choice that a global, unregulated, synthetic textile trade offers. But in my own design work I wanted to use materials that didn't come with a label of toxicity and exploitation. In the pursuit of ethical materials, when the term ‘ethical' is in itself incredibly complex to define, the solution can be hard to find. 

 

This Once Was is a collection that explores one solution: the reuse and reconstruction of existing clothing made from natural fibres. All the garments in this collection were once a different garment; re-cut and re-designed into new garments using couture techniques. Every piece was free draped on the stand and the limitations of the shapes I had to work with from the existing garment became the agent for creativity. The garments were integral, from vintage trimmings and fastenings to organic cotton thread.

 

I didn't assign any of the garments a size as I think the sizing systems we have are inconsistent and limiting, causing us to make unhealthy comparisons and misunderstand our own bodies.

 

The garments are designed for longevity, so they are adjustable to make them as adaptable and shareable as possible. To the same end, every garment comes with a care and repair kit. This contains a piece of the fabric which the garment is made of, an extra length of any trimmings the garment features. This way it can be cared for and repaired for years to come.